Burmese Python Care (Python molurus bivittatus)

Burmese Pythons have long been a favourite among reptile keepers. Their large size and excellent temperament has made them a very popular pet snake. Unfortunately, for many keepers their sheer size eventually proves too much. They often become very tame with handling, but are aggressive feeders. Adult females can grow to over 20ft, more commonly 15-16ft. This is a formidable force coming at you if they smell food. Burmese pythons make wonderful captives if they are given the right conditions; they are the real gentle giants of the snake world, but must never be under-estimated and should be treated with great respect.

For lovers of these huge pythons who cannot afford the space that they need, there are exciting projects in progress which may alter your decisions. Dwarf Burmese Pythons were imported into the UK and USA for the first time in 2003. They occur from a small off-shore Island in South East Asia and grow to a maximum of 7feet. Adult males have bred at just 4feet, and females at 5feet. They have an almost identical appearance to their larger cousins, and youngsters will tame easily. The unfortunate side however, is their current price range.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the snakes life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Burmese python, a vivarium 3m Length x 1m Width x 1.5m Height is ample. These pythons are one of a few species which are generally not worried about the size of their enclosure. The more room you can provide; the better. Many keepers decide to dedicate a whole room to their beloved python. Other keepers may decide to use a corner of a room as the back walls and ceiling of the enclosure, and simply build 2 front walls. This will cut down the costs of building and allow for a larger space for the python.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used for juvenile Burmese Pythons, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 SSSHHH factors:

1) Safety Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?

2) Secure Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?

3) Size Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?

4) Heating Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?

5) Humidity Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?

6) Hygienic Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Dcor

Dcor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing dcor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your dcor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a Burmese Python is certainly capable of doing so. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for an extra large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from a large tupperware box with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and dcor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per metre in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Burmese Pythons require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-94F while the cool end should be approximately 80-84F. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 80-84

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a large Burmese Pythons enclosure is to use a large 250W Ceramic Heater with a reflector and safety grid so the snake cannot touch it. If a room is used, 2 or 3 of these heating areas may be needed. Ceramic heaters do not give off light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A ceramic heater should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the heater as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Power Plates, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as ceramic heaters for large enclosures. Heat mats are not recommended at all for large Burmese Pythons, if so, they should not be accessible to the python.

Lighting

Burmese Pythons are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter. They will often bask in the sun during the day in the wild, so lighting should be offered.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snakes enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12 up to 48 and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium. In a room-sized enclosure, a few may be needed.

Humidity

Burmese Pythons occur in South East Asia and therefore are exposed to a high humidity. This should be replicated in captivity to aid to the general health and well-being of your snake. A 60-70% humidity range will allow to snake to slough its skin properly and become less prone to any problems such as respiratory infections.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered small mice or rat pups, and as they grow the mice or rats should become larger. An adult Burmese Python should be converted to larger food items such as rabbits. One of these every 3-4 weeks is ample. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. The only exception when adult females should be fed more is when they need fattening up for egg production, or just after they have laid. An egg-laying female should be fed double the normal amount for several weeks after they have laid. Snakes have the capability of building up a huge fat reserve, and become obese very easily. Taking the weight off however, is a much more difficult task. Obese snakes will not live nearly the length as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure about your snakes weight, check with a reptile veterinarian.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

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