Marine Turtles at Coral Bay, Ningaloo Reef

Ningaloo Reef is one of the world's major breeding areas for sea turtles. During the breeding season, between November and February, you can book a tour to see the Green, Loggerhead and Hawksbill turtles (three of the world's seven marine turtle species) come ashore to lay their eggs or to see the hatchlings rushing back to the sea.

The nesting is becoming increasingly popular as a nature-based tourism experience in Coral Bay. Foxes are the single biggest predator of the turtle nests where in some instances they are digging up to 60 percent of the nest to eat the eggs. They also prey on hatchlings as they emerge from the sand.

Baiting is carried out at strategic locations along the coastal strip to protect the major turtle nesting sites. Other threats include over-harvesting of turtles and eggs, predation of hatchlings by birds, feral pigs, dogs and goannas, pollution and changes to important habitats, especially nesting beaches. Four-wheel drives are another threat to the turtles because the tyre grooves they leave behind can create trenches that the hatchlings fall into, preventing them reaching the sea.

The effectiveness of conservation operations can be increased if people are more aware of the impact their activities can have on the turtles.

Turtles need the beach

Marine turtles have lived in the oceans for more than 100 million years. They are an integral part of the traditional culture of many indigenous peoples throughout the world. Even though they spend much of their lives drifting and feeding in the open ocean, the beach is an important nesting habitat for turtles.

Turtles live for years in one place before they are ready to make the long breeding migration of up to 3,000 kilometres from their feeding grounds to nesting beaches. Courtship and mating take place in shallow waters near the nesting beach. Females often mate with more than one male. After mating, the males return to the feeding grounds. They have a large shell called a carapace, four strong, paddle-like flippers and like all reptiles, lungs for breathing air. The characteristic beak-like mouth is used to shear or crush food.

Marine Turtles of the Ningaloo Reef

Turtles tagged in the Ningaloo Reef area, have been recorded off the coast of Java, in Indonesia, within the Gulf of Carpentaria Reef and the Lacepede Islands. It is important for the conservation of marine turtles in the Ningaloo Region to help contribute to marine turtle global conservation. Marine turtles are under immense pressure from a range of activities including illegal trade and harvest; unsustainable harvest; some forms of commercial fishing such as trawling and long-lining; and loss of habitat such as seagrass beds, coral reef ecosystems and intact coastlines. In the Ningaloo regions specifically, marine turtles face the following pressures:

Fox predation
Inappropriate recreational and tourism
Activities such as disturbance and four-wheel driving on nesting beaches
Boat strikes
Specific fishing practices, such as long lining
Pollution from developments both marine and land based

This page not only has a lot of information about marine turtles, but check out the other related topics including:

Life-cycle of Marine Turtles
Green Turtles
Loggerhead Turtles
Hawksbill Turtles

Ian Molloy is the owner of Crikey Adventure Tours. Visit his website http://www.crikey-adventure-tours.com for more information about this article and other related topics. His site is full of very helpful travel information including tips on motorcycle travel, driving cross-country, travelling with a caravan and other camping and travel information.

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Paternity Testing Kits

Although not too long ago, someone seeking a paternity test would have needed to visit a special clinic or physician to be tested, now you can get a DNA test right in the comfort of your own home. You don't have to have any special skills either. As a matter of fact, while a few years ago, you would have spent an arm and a leg for testing, you can purchase a home test now for as little as $20! Of course, you will need to pay the lab for the processing, but the difference in price is phenomenal.

How the Testing Process Goes:

You will receive the test in the mail after ordering it. For discretion purposes, it will be a plain looking envelope or package and you will also receive a similar plain looking envelope to return the results. You will first label everything so that your test will be identified as yours and you will fill out the envelope. You will follow the testing process directions and collect the required samples and then mail them back to the lab.

There will be different envelopes for each person that will participate in the test. Of course, you must fill out all information on forms and envelopes so that they can be correctly identified. Then you will typically use a treated cotton swab to swab the inside of the left cheek and the inside of the right cheek. There are normally two swabs for each cheek for each person. Of course, be sure that the end of the swab touches nothing but the inside of your cheek. Rub it around on the inside of your mouth, using a circular and up and down motion. Once you have used the swab, immediately put it into the envelope. When you've done both swabs, place them in the envelope and seal them.

Once you have tested each person, the swabs should be in the corresponding envelopes which are filled out and sealed. You will then make sure all forms and payment information is filled out and the information on how your results will come back to you. You can often find out online through your e-mail address. You will place all of the envelopes and such into the larger envelope to mail it. Most companies will have the results ready within a week, but all companies are different. You can also usually get a faster service for an additional fee. Results are 100% accurate if the man is not the father and 99.9999% sure if the man is the father.

Are you uncertain about your child's paternity? Do you desperately need answers but don't know where to turn? Have you considering getting a paternity test but are unsure about how they work? Well, we can help! At DNA Paternity Testing Information, we provide confidential and quality information about home and medical paternity tests. Visit http://www.dnapaternitytestinghelp.com today and find the information you need.

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America's Stonehenge - A New Theory

The America's Stonehenge archaeological site is located on the summit of Mystery Hill in North Salem, NH. It consists of enigmatic stone chambers, standing stones, niches, drains, and astronomical alignments. Who built these stone structures and for what purpose?

The professional archaeological community has long argued that the site was built by an eccentric farmer who built his house on the hill between 1825 and 1850. Other researchers have proposed that the site was built by Irish Monks. Both of these theories, although quite popular, have been disproven by the archaeological evidence. Stone tools used to quarry the bedrock and shape stones for the some of the earliest structures were C-14 dated to 3000 years ago. This means the site began construction well before Irish Monk starting building religious communities, and certainly predates any 19th century farmers by over three thousand years. Who else could have built this site?

Archaeology has discovered two groups of artifacts and other evidence at the site. The first group of artifacts dates from the 1800's though the early 1900's. All this evidence is associated with the Pattee homestead on the site (circa 1825-1850) and later picnickers from the early 1900's. The second group of artifacts and other evidence spans from 3000 years ago through the 1600's. All of this evidence is associated with Native American activity on the site. It consists of various stone tools used for quarrying, shards of Native American pottery made and used on the site, petroglyphs (rock carvings), pecked & abraded grooved drains, and other Native American artifacts. The evidence overwhelmingly points in one direction - the site was built by Native Americans.

What was the purpose of these stone structures? Like all cultures worldwide, the Native Americans had their own religious traditions. These religious beliefs involved holding ceremonies with various spirits. They created astronomical alignments to mark the date that a ceremony was to be held and also as a means to call the Sun Spirit into their ceremonies. They carved drains in the bedrock to pour sacred water into during ceremonies. They built stone chambers to hold other important ceremonies.

The theory that America's Stonehenge was built by Native Americans is based upon an exhaustive four year study of the site. This study is carefully documented in the book America's Stonehenge Deciphered.

Not sure what theory to believe? Then take a tour of the site and see for yourself. America's Stonehenge is open year round to visitors (admission fee is charged). For an in depth self-guided tour of the site based upon this new research checkout A Guide to America's Stonehenge pamphlet ($4.95) before your trip. Can't travel to the site in person? Take a tour of the site with a 40 minute documentary film, America's Stonehenge: The History of a Sacred Place.

Mary Gage and James Gage (mother & son research team) are co-authors of several books on stone quarrying, historic carved stones, America's Stonehenge, and Native American stone structures in Northeastern United States.

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Corn Snake Care (Pantherophis guttatus guttatus)

Corn snakes have become the most extensively produced snake in captivity, and for good reason. They are docile, suit well to captive conditions, and reasonably sized among other things. They are certainly a good beginner snake, possibly the best. In the following few pages, I will take you through the various factors of keeping corn snakes.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the corn snakes life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult corn snake, a vivarium 90cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is ample. Contrary to popular belief, and propaganda spread by various campaigners, you can actually have too large of an enclosure for corn snakes. The reason for this, is that snakes are very prone to stress, and being in an excessively large enclosure can scare them. Imagine in the wild they are constantly hiding from predators, then, when they feel its safe in the dark of night, they will venture out to hunt for food. Once they find their food, they will return to the safety of their secure hiding place until the next time around. Some species will not even venture out for their prey; instead they will sit and wait for it to come along. They may also leave their den for sloughing their skin or finding a mate at certain times of the year. Many individual snakes feel very comfortable in captivity, although this generally comes with age and lots of handling. Snakes like these will often thrive in a larger than usual enclosure.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 SSSHHH factors:

1) Safety Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?
5) Humidity Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?
6) Hygienic Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Dcor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing dcor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your dcor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, an adult corn snake is also capable of doing this. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from an ice cream tub with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and dcor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Corn snakes require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 86-88F while the cool end should be approximately 74-76F. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 74-78

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a corn snake enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Corn snakes are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a corn snakes enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12 up to 48 and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity

Corn Snakes are found in the South Eastern States of North America where the humidity can be fairly high. It is not important to be critical over the humidity with this species, but a general 40-60% humidity range should be offered. This is more important when the snake is approaching its slough, at which time a higher humidity will help it shed its skin properly.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered pinky mice, and as they grow the mice should become larger. An adult corn snake should be fed on large size mice or small weaner rats. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 4-5 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. Adult corn snakes need feeding once every 2 weeks on 2 large mice. The only exception when they should be fed more is bringing them out of hibernation, getting them into condition for breeding and then, fattening up females for egg production. An egg-laying female should be fed more often than normal, once a week on 2 large mice.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

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